”Though I do have a few Riva and Bonfanti shirts, it was the Neapolitan tailor, Gennaro Solito who helped me break the habit. I always admired his shirts and one day asked him what cloth he used. He told me he did not care for Riva fabrics for their fragility and the fact that in very warm weather (common in Naples) they were too thin and allowed perspiration to soak them. He maintained that men in Naples preferred heavier cloth in summer that absorbed perspiration, did not leave the unpleasant wet stains, and by humidifying the shirt actually kept one cooler. Solito’s advice was excellent.
I hate to dampen the enthusiasm for Riva, but heavier cloth keeps you warmer in winter, cooler in summer, drapes better and lasts longer. If you are ever in Naples there is a shirting fabrics shop near Caccioppoli that has a great collection of high quality heavy shirtings to support the local trade.”